Head wind

 It could have been such a good night's sleep. If only the duvet hadn't been a scarily high number of togs and I hadn't opened the window more as a result. You know when your body goes into high alert in the night because you can't identify a strange noise? Well, eventually, I identified this strange noise as two cats which had obviously spotted the open window and managed to climb up and in, probably with a skill born of much practice. It was very dark and I was shining my phone and moving as quietly as possible over impossible creaky floor boards whilst trying to literally herd cats. I saw one and 'ushered' it back to the window. I wasn't sure if there had been another and I didn't really want to know. Kate, who would usually claim that she was woken by a cat stamping down a carpeted corridor, slept through the whole escapade. In the morning, as I made my way to the bathroom, the second cat walked out of the spare bedroom (we had a spare bedroom!) stretched luxuriantly, and asked to be let out through the door rather than the, no doubt, more tedious exit via the window. 

We were up and out quite quickly this morning, preferring to breakfast in the village at the bottom of the hill. Alas, we were too early. We did find a boulangerie, but when we asked the lady behind the counter what time the café opened, she replied "J' sais pas" which such indifference that we felt we must have asked something awful. In the end, we cycled past a camp site and Kate said I bet they have a shop and they would be happy to sell us a coffee. They did and they were.

The first ten miles were more than we bargained for in terms of hills and we must have climbed not far off 1,000 feet in those first miles. This was the day that I assured Kate, was going to be way flatter, so not a great start. 

We did get through the trickier terrain and would have settled to fifty miles of flattish road at a crackin pace. But. The wind which had been so amenable up to now, turned on us. Literally. And it was strong. So it was heads down and push away. We arrived at a village that we had hoped would boast a boulangerie. We asked some children in the street. It's closed, they told us. Of course! It's now 12:30. 

We arrived at a slightly bigger village called St. Martin. There was a shop and it was open. We bought a baguette, some Emmental, ham, tomatoes, peaches and a packet of biscuits and feasted. This feast took place on a little patch of grass near the river Vienne. The sun finally came out and all was well. I oiled the chains and put some more air in the tyres. Then we noticed the dog poo. It was all over the grass and my shoes. It did lessen the enjoyment of our picnic experience somewhat but at least we'd finished. We then returned to the public loos, which are always very good, and cleaned up properly. 

Forty miles in, we stopped for a cuppa at a town called, Chauvigny. It was somewhere that we would have liked to stay longer if we hadn't needed to press on. Pressing on was essential today. We finished a ride of 65 miles against the wind to arrive in Chatellerault. It's a big town with a very attractive town centre full of  bars. Our hotel is very close to it and very posh. But there's a catch. We are in the 'economy' room. This economy room cost us €113 with no breakfast. It's a very grand building (see pics) but we're not there. We have been secreted away in the shed to one side. OK  I exaggerate, but it definitely isn't the posh bit. Having said that, we love it. We have our own little courtyard and it's really private. Just right for two weary travellers. We went into town. None of the eating places started serving until 7pm. Too late for us. We are tired and don't eat late anyway. So, sorry to say, we bought a Dominoes pizza and salad. We ate them at the table in our little courtyard. I have to say the pizza was excellent. And Kate enjoyed her salad. I don't know how you can enjoy a 'petite verte' salad after cycling 65 miles in a head wind but then Kate is well 'ard. 

We have spent the last few days in the wilderness. I'm not being all allegorical when I say that, I just mean it has felt very isolated. I think this will change now. Tomorrow we should find ourselves in Tours, on the Loire.

That sounds like somewhere

                                             Campsite coffees. Without having to camp

                                                             Let the feast commence

                                            Delightful spot prior to dog poo discovery

 

          Photo taken before turning back off a path which just looked like too much hard work.

                                                  Our little hide-away

                                                       Perfect courtyard for a pizza

Our hotel. But only sort of...